Domaine Michel Prunier et Fille is a fourth generation family run Domaine based in Auxey Duresses. Michel has been gradually adding to his vineyards, most recently with the purchase of a parcel of Pommard "Les Vignots". He has recently been joined by his daughter Estelle and between them they produce a range of highly regarded wines spanning Bourgogne Blanc and Rouge up to their Meursault Village and their Beaune and Volnay 1er Crus. They also make a really exceptional sparkling Cremant de Bourgogne. This Domaine, which now has 12 hectares of vines, produces a number of wines that comfortably outclass their official ranking and our only regret here is that, as is so often the case, their overall production of any one wine is so small.

The village of Auxey (pronounced Aussey. An X in the name is always a soft ss in this region) is hardly a mile from Meursault. The Route des Grands Crus runs straight through it and as you come from the direction of Beaune almost the first building you will see is Michel's new cuverie. A little further on and you will come to Michel's restaurant, "La Cremaillere". It lies just across the road from his Domaine and needless to say, the wine list contains several of his own wines. We have visited Michel many times now and he has become a good friend. Each year at the Fete St Vincent, held on the last week-end of January, when it is invariably bitingly cold, he hosts a most memorable lunch and dinner at La Cremaillere. This is alwasy a memorable affair which starts after the parade and ceremonies and concludes well into the early hours of the next morning. Burgundian hospitality is rightly famous.

It does not seem to matter which of the Domaine's wines one tries, they are each lovely examples of their appellation with a common denominator running through all of them which is their vibrant fruit flavours and the ease with which they may be drunk from a relatively young age. There is a style that runs through the whole range and if you enjoy one of their wines, you will probably enjoy the others as well. The top wines will benefit from several years in bottle, particularly the Pommard, Volnay, Beaune, Auxey 1er Cru and Clos du Val for the reds and the Auxey Vieilles Vignes and Meursault for the whites, but this does not stop them being very enjoyable well before full maturity. They will also keep for decades, if you have the patience and self-discipline to allow them. The more junior appellations are very much wines for today and tomorrow.

Michel's vines are mainly close to home, with only his Chorey les Beaune somewhat further afield. His 1er Cru Clos du Val is, for us, his benchmark wine. This small, half hectare plot which runs up the hill behind his house, produces wines of great character and longevity. His 2003 vintage won the Gold Medal at the Concours Generale Agricole in Paris.